Edge tuning

[anaesthetic]

What will happen if one skiboard has sharper edges than the other?

I have one of those TOKO edgers thats like coarse sandpaper and it didn't survive both skiboards, so one is sharper. Don't think I can get a replacement in time.

Husband has a different edger thats like a metal file, but it has different angles (88 and 90). Whats the best angles for different conditions etc.? I was doing it to 89.

[the fitz]

all mountain 1deg base 89 side
halfpipe/ice 1deg base 90deg side
rails/jibs 2deg base 90deg side
alpine racing .5deg base 87-88 side dont know how one board being blunt would affect ride11

[bee]

I have no real life experience, but I would assume that as long as they weren't to dull to begin with, you won't notice a difference, as long as you file the base edge.

I always thought that you wanted the edges as close to a right angle as possible.

So 1 degree on the base would mean 89deg on the side.
If you ride rails 2deg on the base and 88 on the side.

If it is less than 90 deg total it would be more easily damaged, but stay sharper longer.

More then 90 very strong for taking impacts but dull that much faster.

I personally use tape wrapped around a file for the bases probably around 1 deg, and 88 for the side (cause I have a choice of 88 or 90 with my guide). Who knows if those guides are even that accurate? In fact I can actually rock my file slightly in my guide.

http://www.snowboard-mag.com/node/16121
I learned how to sharpen from these videos. He does a pretty good explanation IMO.

[tylerlough]

so do you make the sides look like this: /\
so that the bottom of the side edge sticks out more than the top of the side edge?
I get how base beveling works just not side beveling.

[bee]

Well what that link says, and makes sense to me is, you want to keep as close to a 90deg as possible. (L shape)

All mountain
riding about 1 deg on base,89 or so on side (L shape) compromise between performance and durability.

Park
To stop the edge from catching on rails and stuff, the video says do a 2-3deg on base and 88 on side. (final shape 90deg L )

The Fitz, I guess is saying to make it blunter to protect it from damage on rails.

Racing
Fitz is saying make /\ for max performance when carving.

I personally do about 1 deg on base, just using the tape method shown in the video. And I use 88 guide on the side, since the one I have only has 88 or 90deg. (I do all mountain)

So I am making the /\ shape but I doubt I will hit anything hard (crosses fingers).

Hopefully someone verifies what I am saying cause as you know I am a noob to this, but.... This Is my understanding.


anaesthetic
If you do the fingernail test does it seem to be similar sharpness between skis after you sharpen the bases?

[Manlenium]

Does someone have pictures of a home filing......just like the wax pics. I was thinking of doing a home job soon.....

[tylerlough]

You're right bee, thanks.
I've never beveled the sides before because I don't have an edge tool. Tognar has edge tips here (http://www.tognar.com/edge_tips_file_bevel_ski_snowboard.html)

[WulFTrobe]

Originally posted by bee
I have no real life experience, but I would assume that as long as they weren't to dull to begin with, you won't notice a difference, as long as you file the base edge.

I always thought that you wanted the edges as close to a right angle as possible.

So 1 degree on the base would mean 89deg on the side.
If you ride rails 2deg on the base and 88 on the side.

If it is less than 90 deg total it would be more easily damaged, but stay sharper longer.

More then 90 very strong for taking impacts but dull that much faster.

I personally use tape wrapped around a file for the bases probably around 1 deg, and 88 for the side (cause I have a choice of 88 or 90 with my guide). Who knows if those guides are even that accurate? In fact I can actually rock my file slightly in my guide.

http://www.snowboard-mag.com/node/16121
I learned how to sharpen from these videos. He does a pretty good explanation IMO.

These video's are perfect. Thanks for the link.