Snowjam Tune Kit

[koneco]

Anybody have any experience with the particular wax iron in this batch? Temperature dial sketches me out ... anyone know anything about it, the temp range ... performance, etc?

[MitchK]

Anybody have any experience with the particular wax iron in this batch? Temperature dial sketches me out ... anyone know anything about it, the temp range ... performance, etc?

Once you learn the iron, the dial doesn't even matter all that much. When I was looking up "how to"s on hot waxing, most that I read didn't mention temp ranges at all, I remember one saying to something along the lines of find out where the wax starts burning on the iron (smoke comes off the iron) and turn it down from there to a point where there's no smoke, but it's still plenty hot.

[Roussel]

some waxes will have a recommended temperature to melt the wax at on the packaging.

[koneco]

What about the temperature at which the bases start sealing? I've heard you actually have to get those hot for the wax to sink in. You can tell when you're burning your bases on black-based skiboards, but the Lacroixs I bought have a white base. Is there a temperature limit difference between the two?

[koneco]

Granted, I am a complete nub at this waxing thing, but it seems to me that this here iron doesn't get hot enough to effectively melt the wax. It DOES melt the wax, it's just not hot enough to get that rapid drip you see on plenty of other wax jobs. Also, the edges on the iron are not nice and rounded, so I catch the drips and even the stuff I've already flattened, and it builds up on the sides. The iron only really gets hot in the center, and the wax just sticks to everything else.

Scraper works fine.
Brush works fine, though I don't like the different bristle materials, brass and nylon/whatever on the same tiny brush. I bought a much larger horsehair Swix brush that the guy at the local shop likes to use almost exclusively (he was also very surprised to hear the price of Hertel Super Hot Sauce here, as it is all he uses to tune skis, and he's never gotten it this cheap).

Testing all this stuff out on my poor old snowblades. I don't really feel like throwing them out just yet, but I'd rather screw these ones up learning how to wax than the new guys. Even if I am not effectively melting the wax, it seems there is at least some improvement in the look of the bases ... before they seemed chalky, but now they're jet black. I still would probably grab a more expensive iron, though.

Brian

[FightingForAir]

I just got this kit and will be trying it out this weekend.

If anyone has any tips, I'd love to hear them. This is my first attempt at doing my own wax jobs. I've viewed some tutorials on youtube and read some threads here. Also am just really curious if anyone else on here has any experience with the snowjam mini-iron.

[Greco]

one of the most important things to remember is start with your bases as warm as possible. if they are outside and you bring them right in to wax them you'll have major problems with wax not sticking or melting correctly.

[DennisEvans]

one of the most important things to remember is start with your bases as warm as possible. if they are outside and you bring them right in to wax them you'll have major problems with wax not sticking or melting correctly.

You can actually damage the bases if you wax cold, just don't do it.

[FightingForAir]

Good to know. Thanks for the tips.

[wjeong]

I just got this kit and will be trying it out this weekend.

If anyone has any tips, I'd love to hear them. This is my first attempt at doing my own wax jobs. I've viewed some tutorials on youtube and read some threads here. Also am just really curious if anyone else on here has any experience with the snowjam mini-iron.

Robert,

A tip about scraping..... scrape the wax off as smooth and clean as possible. You only need a very thin layer on the base. A shiney waxy smooth base is what you want.... no gobs of thick wax.

Wendell

[koneco]

My old snowblades had been inside for at least a week in the relatively warmness of my apartment. Do I have to warm them up more than that? I'd say it's about 65 F in my room, and the boards (if warmed by iron) cool fairly quickly. I'm just not sure, you know, since I read you can't heat them up much more than 250 F or they begin to seal. I'm still not convinced the iron can get that hot. I'm gonna find a decent dial thermometer and fool around with it some more today.

B

[FightingForAir]

I pitched the iron. Experienced the same thing you did. Didn't get hot enough and the edges of the iron were considerably cooler than the center. Time to spring for a better iron and try again.

[CAN]

Hey Robert,

I'm bringing my waxing stuff. We can get anything waxed we need to in Tahoe. I will have ours all waxed up so we can do as many boards of yours as you want. Don't pay someone as we can do it there. Looking SO forward to this weekend!!

Chad

[FightingForAir]

Coolness ... thanks Chad. I kept the scraper, the brush ... and I have three sticks of Hertel wax left.

I did get all the boards waxed, but ended up having to use an old clothes iron. It had holes and grooves in it, so it did not work very well either but I think I did get enough wax coverage to be good enough for the first couple days ... we'll see.

Your new (used) ALPs have a fresh coat, edge tune, and detuned tips and tails, so they should be good to go for you or Cindy. Got Cindy's bottle of Pinot as well ( payment for the S.O.W. comment a while back :D )

We plan on heading out Friday afternoon ... drive as far as we can until we get tired, grab a hotel for the night, then finish the drive Sat morning. I'll give you a call on your cell when we get into Carnelian Bay area. We are planning on sometime between 2:00 and 3:00 pm.

[CAN]

Hi Robert,

We are leaving early Sat AM so we will get there around 4. Thats cool can't wait.

Chad