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  1. #1 Losing Weight -- From My Gear 
    Hardcore Skiboarder Wookie's Avatar
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    With the season starting for many of us and right around the corner for me I have been thinking about how I can lighten my set-up. I was working on my 120s this weekend and marveled at how light they were without the risers and bindings. When I add the risers/bindings,\ and my size 12 boots my light naked skiboards become part of a very heavy set-up. So here's my question for the forum:

    Does anyone have any tips on how to lighten up a skiboarding set-up?

    Everything is on the table except the following things I don't want to change:
    1 - I love my 120s and don't want a shorter skiboard (for now).
    2 - No matter what board I ride I want to stick with a release binding.
    3 - My boots are less than a season old and very comfortable so I don't want to replace them (but I will tweak them).

    I was curious if anyone had any experience with modifying their risers, changing bindings, altering their boots, etc. to try to reduce the weight of what's on your feet.
    Boards:
    2016 Spruce tuned Head Jr. Caddys - 131cm
    2013 Spruce "CTS" 120s
    2010 Spruce "Yellow/Red" 120s
    2018 Spruce "CTS" Crossbows - 115cm
    2016 RVL8 Spliffs - 109cm
    2008 RVL8 Revolt "City" - 105cm
    2017 RVL8 Sticky Icky Icky - 104cm
    2011 Defiance Blades - 101cm
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  2. #2  
    SBOLTeam III Rider sempai's Avatar
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    If you're not willing to change any of your equipment, there's really nothing that I know of that you can do.

    Skiboards:
    2013 Spruce Sherpas w/Tyrolia Peak 11s
    2015 RVL8 Blunt XLs w/Tyrolia Attack 13s
    2018 Spruce Crossbows w/Tyrolia Peak 11s
    2017 RVL8 Sticky Icky Ickys w/Tyrolia SX 10s


    Boots:
    Salomon X-Pro 80

    Past boards: Salomon Snowblades, Line MNPs 89 & 98 cm, Five-Os, Bullets, Jedis, Spruce 120s, LE 125s, Ospreys
    Summit 110s, Nomads, Jades, RVL8 ALPs, BWPs, KTPs, Tanshos, Rockets, DLPs, Blunts, Condors, RCs, Revolts, Spliffs
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  3. #3  
    Hardcore Skiboarder Bad Wolf's Avatar
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    Both my wife and I have always skied on boards with factory non release bindings, This really is a very light set up. We decided to upgrade this year and now have boards with risers and release bindings on them. We picked them up from the shop today after having them tuned and they feel really heavy. This may take a lot of getting used to. I could barely even tell that my old boards were on mt feet; this has to affect you skiing style.
    Just these, nothing else !

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  4. #4  
    RVL8 FlowTeam tyberesk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wookie View Post
    With the season starting for many of us and right around the corner for me I have been thinking about how I can lighten my set-up. I was working on my 120s this weekend and marveled at how light they were without the risers and bindings. When I add the risers/bindings,\ and my size 12 boots my light naked skiboards become part of a very heavy set-up. So here's my question for the forum:

    Does anyone have any tips on how to lighten up a skiboarding set-up?

    Everything is on the table except the following things I don't want to change:
    1 - I love my 120s and don't want a shorter skiboard (for now).
    2 - No matter what board I ride I want to stick with a release binding.
    3 - My boots are less than a season old and very comfortable so I don't want to replace them (but I will tweak them).

    I was curious if anyone had any experience with modifying their risers, changing bindings, altering their boots, etc. to try to reduce the weight of what's on your feet.
    Haha release bindings are heavier than nonreleasable, its pretty much impossible to lighten your setup. Your best bet might be to do some leg work and get stronger to make it feel lighter.

    However full tilt boots are lighter than other boots i've used, but they only work if they fit your feet.
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  5. #5  
    GGO Co-Founder | SBOLTeam III Rider bee's Avatar
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    If you want to stick with longer boards and release bindings what about summit boards with the bindings directly mounted to the boards? Then you wouldn't need a riser at all.
    You could get the summit boards without bindings and then buy the lightest bindings possible and have them mounted up.


    You can drill some holes in your risers, or cut any of the aluminum that sticks out past the binding, but the difference will be minimal. And obviously void warranty or hurt resale value.



    You could ride full size skis, and then when you switch back your spruces will feel super light and nimble.
    www.skiboardbindings.com GGO Co-Founder

    Check out a review of our bindings http://www.skiboardsonline.com/forum...ad.php?t=13031 (Thanks Rob)

    My setup:
    DLP/Ktps (randomly switch)
    Condors, not rockered (powder/crap conditions board)
    GGO soft boot bindings
    Ride RFL Snowboard Boots
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  6. #6  
    Hardcore Skiboarder Wookie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tyberesk View Post
    Haha release bindings are heavier than nonreleasable, its pretty much impossible to lighten your setup. Your best bet might be to do some leg work and get stronger to make it feel lighter.

    However full tilt boots are lighter than other boots i've used, but they only work if they fit your feet.

    As an engineer I am a firm believer that nothing is impossible but I am also realistic that I am not going to get lbs out of my set-up maybe an ounce here or there. Leg work is an option but I am an ice hockey goalie and regularly skate with several pounds on each leg without issue. I have just recently felt my skiboarding set-up might feel more nimble if it went on a "diet".

    For the Full Tilts I gave them a try and they didn't work for me. I have a really narrow foot and there was too much slop in the toe for me. I have been looking at upgrading the buckles of my existing boots and had a friend who drilled out some of the material to lose weight. With a size twelve boot much of my weight issues are in the boot and not the boards/bindings.
    Boards:
    2016 Spruce tuned Head Jr. Caddys - 131cm
    2013 Spruce "CTS" 120s
    2010 Spruce "Yellow/Red" 120s
    2018 Spruce "CTS" Crossbows - 115cm
    2016 RVL8 Spliffs - 109cm
    2008 RVL8 Revolt "City" - 105cm
    2017 RVL8 Sticky Icky Icky - 104cm
    2011 Defiance Blades - 101cm
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  7. #7  
    Hardcore Skiboarder Wookie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee View Post
    ..... You can drill some holes in your risers, or cut any of the aluminum that sticks out past the binding, but the difference will be minimal. And obviously void warranty or hurt resale value.

    You could ride full size skis, and then when you switch back your spruces will feel super light and nimble.
    I don't think there is a whole lot to gain from the aluminum riser. If I look at the riser/binding assembly I find that a lot of the weight is in the binding heel piece. If someone has adapted a super light binding to a Spruce riser I would be interested in hearing about it.

    As for the long skis you are right about that. My Head 172s are massive compared to my 120s. One quick ride on the long skis would remind me how nice my longboard skiboard set-up is.
    Boards:
    2016 Spruce tuned Head Jr. Caddys - 131cm
    2013 Spruce "CTS" 120s
    2010 Spruce "Yellow/Red" 120s
    2018 Spruce "CTS" Crossbows - 115cm
    2016 RVL8 Spliffs - 109cm
    2008 RVL8 Revolt "City" - 105cm
    2017 RVL8 Sticky Icky Icky - 104cm
    2011 Defiance Blades - 101cm
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  8. #8  
    GGO Co-Founder | SBOLTeam III Rider bee's Avatar
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    Release bindings do not follow any kind of standardized bolt pattern. Every brand is different, and model to model or year to year within a brand is pretty sketchy.
    The issue with putting a new binding on a spruce riser is that there are a lot of mounting holes already drilled in the riser and when you try to drill new holes for a new binding they might overlap slightly making it impossible.
    As far as I know the only way is to buy the bindings and check for yourself if they will work.

    Summit boards are the lightest release long board option. You can choose your bindings and completely do away with the riser. They have a metal plate built into the board allowing you to direct mount the bindings.

    You can make your own riser. Someone on here made one out of plastic that was designed to flex with the board. Initial testing was positive. And I believe that would be relatively affordable to have made up. I don't remember who made it though. There is a thread somewhere on it.

    You could also copy the spruce riser design. I bet a machine shop can make a copy pretty easily. And then mount of bindings of your choosing.

    You could ask spruce if he has any risers with no holes drilled in them that you can buy.

    If you do go through with something custom post it up, Id love to see what you come up with.
    www.skiboardbindings.com GGO Co-Founder

    Check out a review of our bindings http://www.skiboardsonline.com/forum...ad.php?t=13031 (Thanks Rob)

    My setup:
    DLP/Ktps (randomly switch)
    Condors, not rockered (powder/crap conditions board)
    GGO soft boot bindings
    Ride RFL Snowboard Boots
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  9. #9  
    Hardcore Skiboarder Bluewing's Avatar
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    Fighting for Air was working on a flexible riser:

    http://www.skiboardsonline.com/forum...ad.php?t=12490

    http://www.skiboardsonline.com/forum...ad.php?t=13143

    It's been a while since I looked through those threads. I don't think weight reduction was the main goal - I recall it was really more focused on maximizing the flex of the skiboard - or to put it another way minimize the amount of the skiboard that doesn't flex because of the riser footprint.

    Exlaim risers from days gone by looked like they might be lighter. Those risers looked like they would be lighter weight. Not sure if they were cast or CNC'd but it seemed like they were "latticed" and didn't have a big center beam/block.

    http://www.skiboardsonline.com/forum...ead.php?t=5127

    They also had another model: http://www.skiboardsonline.com/forum...ad.php?t=13411

    Not sure if any of the people on this forum who have been around a while might have a set of Exclaim risers/bindings around to get you a weight comparison with the current Spruce set-up.

    I am sure a few hours with a Dremel would shave some weight off of your gear.....
    In pursuit of Peace, Harmony and Flow.....
    Think Like a Mountain

    Boards ridden, some owned: Sherpas, Spruce 120 "STS", Blunts, DS110 custom prototypes, Rockered Condors, Revolts, DLPs, Summit Custom 110s, Summit Marauders, Head 94s, Raptor prototypes, Osprey prototypes.
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  10. #10  
    TeamRVL8 | KTP kirk's Avatar
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    One thing to note....

    I really think that absolute weight is not much of an issue with skiboards/skis. The issue is how the weight is distributed. Longer boards have the weight further away from your foot, which ends up making them feel exponentially more "weighty". My current boots are probably twice as heavy as the pair I had previously, but I can't tell any difference while riding. On the other hand, if I change from my KTPs to a pair of 105s, I immediately notice the difference in swing weight. Only 4cm makes a huge difference. Dropping from a 120cm to a 99cm board would have a much greater difference in the feel on your feet than sawing plastic off your boots.
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  11. #11  
    Hardcore Skiboarder Scribbler's Avatar
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    I haven't put them side by side on some scales, but the exclaim! riser setup seems MUCH heavier than my Spruce riser. The exclaim risers are three solid metal blocks, and the Rossi bindings they use seem in the heavy side too. Don't think it's going to help...
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