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View Poll Results: Which bindings do you prefer?

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  • Release Bindings (hard boot)

    23 36.51%
  • Non-Release Bindings (hard boot)

    20 31.75%
  • Both, depending on what I'm doing on the mountain that day

    13 20.63%
  • Non-Release Bindings (soft boot)

    7 11.11%
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  1. #16  
    Skiboarder Romolo's Avatar
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    I've been using non-release for the past 7 years. After a few minor yet injuries, (not related to having non-release, just being fat and stupid) I've decided to make the switch. Because I may not be so lucky next time. I'm primarily riding Condors right now, but I'll still probably use my old non-release bindings on my KTPs or on any even shorter boards I may get in the future.
    Boards
    Revel8 2011 Condor
    Revel8 2009 Revolt "Condor Graphic"
    Revel8 2008 KTP


    Bindings
    Tyrolia Attack 13 on Spruce Risers
    Bomber Elite II

    Boots
    Nordica 2012 Double Six
    Salomon 2010 Impact 8 CS


    Booze
    Crown Royal
    Maker's Mark
    Tito's Handmade Vodka


    Brews
    Pabst Blue Ribbon
    Bell's Hop Slam


    Injuries
    2012 - (Left) Torn MCL
    2013 - (Right) Torn Deltoid Ligament & Tibial Fracture
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  2. #17 Decker 
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    I have a Spruce risers with Tyrolia bindings, mounted on a set of 110 DLPs. Because of the height of the riser, the brakes seem like they might not be as effective in stopping a loose board, especially with the camber under foot. Should I use leashes as a back up, or is that going over board? I'm new to skiboarding, and thought I'd ask.
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  3. #18  
    Hardcore Skiboarder Wookie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DECKER View Post
    I have a Spruce risers with Tyrolia bindings, mounted on a set of 110 DLPs. Because of the height of the riser, the brakes seem like they might not be as effective in stopping a loose board, especially with the camber under foot. Should I use leashes as a back up, or is that going over board? I'm new to skiboarding, and thought I'd ask.

    First welcome to the sport and the forum. To your question using leashes and brakes is a bit like belts and suspenders in that you can do it but really don't need both. The brakes on the Spruce risers should work just fine and will keep you in compliance with the safety rules of most resorts. The reality with brakes on skiboards (or skis) is that sometimes they do very little to stop a runaway ski or skiboard on hard snow. If the board gets on its side or the brakes can't dig in they may slide away. If you are really worried about losing a skiboard you can add the leashes but in 3+ seasons on skiboards I have yet to have one get too far away after the bindings released.

    To complicate it there are two caveats to consider:

    1. If you are riding in powder leashes are a good idea. While the brakes may stop a rogue board they do nothing to help you find it buried in the pow. I lost a board in pow once and spent some time digging to find it. So on a powder day you want to consider leashes.
    2. If a board releases on the chair lift, brakes aren't much help and you are in for a walk to your lost board. There are plenty of guys on the forum that have recounted where leashes have saved them when a board released on the lift or was kicked off by a fellow lift passenger.


    In summary, the riser should not prevent the brakes from working but there are other reasons to think about leashes. It is belts and suspenders but not without benefits.
    Boards:
    2016 Spruce tuned Head Jr. Caddys - 131cm
    2013 Spruce "CTS" 120s
    2010 Spruce "Yellow/Red" 120s
    2018 Spruce "CTS" Crossbows - 115cm
    2016 RVL8 Spliffs - 109cm
    2008 RVL8 Revolt "City" - 105cm
    2017 RVL8 Sticky Icky Icky - 104cm
    2011 Defiance Blades - 101cm
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  4. #19  
    Hardcore Skiboarder ysb33r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DECKER View Post
    I have a Spruce risers with Tyrolia bindings, mounted on a set of 110 DLPs. Because of the height of the riser, the brakes seem like they might not be as effective in stopping a loose board, especially with the camber under foot. Should I use leashes as a back up, or is that going over board? I'm new to skiboarding, and thought I'd ask.
    I took off my brakes a long time ago as I like to swap the Spruce riser between wider & narrower boards. Now I find that I rarely need brakes and coil leashes are my preferred option.

    Even on steep hills I have found that getting back into the binding is not a problem. If you really need to, sit down and push the heel piece back into position.

    If you are thinking coil leashes, here's a video showing them in action.

    '18 Spruce Crossbow 115 + Spruce Pro Prime risers (Tyrolia Attack 13 bindings) [goto]
    '18 Spruce Osprey 13- + Ambition bindings plate-mounted [touring]

    '15 Spruce Osprey 130 + Ambition bindings + backcountry riser [touring]
    '12 Rockered Condor 110 + Spruce Pro Sport risers

    '14 K2 Pinnacle Boots
    '10 Spruce 120 + Spruce Pro Jr risers
    '13 Eman Uprise 104 + Custom Riser & SP100 bindings
    '11 Allz Elaila 94

    Previous: Gaspo Hot Wax 84s, Mantrax 98s, Summit Nomad 99s, Salomon RS80 boots


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  5. #20  
    Hardcore Skiboarder Bluewing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DECKER View Post
    I have a Spruce risers with Tyrolia bindings, mounted on a set of 110 DLPs. Because of the height of the riser, the brakes seem like they might not be as effective in stopping a loose board, especially with the camber under foot. Should I use leashes as a back up, or is that going over board? I'm new to skiboarding, and thought I'd ask.
    Wookie and ysb33r have provided good feedback and things to consider. For me personally, I don't use leashes if the brakes will clear the sides of the boards (i.e., the board is skinnier than the brakes). I do use leashes for boards where the brakes won't clear the board (i.e., Blunts) because they are obviously needed. I would get concerned for my safety using leashes for longer boards - e.g., I would not use leashes with my 120s or Sherpas. I would use powder cords for those boards if I ever skied bottomless pow. I don't want longer boards attached to me if I happen to go windmilling down a slope during a fall - last thing I need is to be beat to a pulp and/or slashed up by my sharp edges by whirling boards. For me with shorter boards that is not as much of a concern. Personal decision for all.

    I like the coil leashes too like ysb33r. I have only had a few releases with them with no problems.
    In pursuit of Peace, Harmony and Flow.....
    Think Like a Mountain

    Boards ridden, some owned: Sherpas, Spruce 120 "STS", Blunts, DS110 custom prototypes, Rockered Condors, Revolts, DLPs, Summit Custom 110s, Summit Marauders, Head 94s, Raptor prototypes, Osprey prototypes.
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  6. #21  
    Hardcore Skiboarder ysb33r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluewing View Post
    I like the coil leashes too like ysb33r. I have only had a few releases with them with no problems.
    My daughter rides 120s with coil leashes.
    '18 Spruce Crossbow 115 + Spruce Pro Prime risers (Tyrolia Attack 13 bindings) [goto]
    '18 Spruce Osprey 13- + Ambition bindings plate-mounted [touring]

    '15 Spruce Osprey 130 + Ambition bindings + backcountry riser [touring]
    '12 Rockered Condor 110 + Spruce Pro Sport risers

    '14 K2 Pinnacle Boots
    '10 Spruce 120 + Spruce Pro Jr risers
    '13 Eman Uprise 104 + Custom Riser & SP100 bindings
    '11 Allz Elaila 94

    Previous: Gaspo Hot Wax 84s, Mantrax 98s, Summit Nomad 99s, Salomon RS80 boots


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  7. #22 Decker 
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    So, if I decide to use the same risers/bindings, on the DLPs and the Blunts, should I remove the brakes? Also, can I mount the coiled leashes directly to the Spruce risers, since there aren't many binding/leash mount options.

    You guys are a wealth of knowledge.

    Thanks.
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  8. #23  
    Hardcore Skiboarder Wookie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DECKER View Post
    So, if I decide to use the same risers/bindings, on the DLPs and the Blunts, should I remove the brakes?
    You can. This is what ysb33r is referencing. Rather than worry about having different sized (width) brakes or removing brakes when using wider boards many guys just remove them all together and only use leashes. The obvious pluses are not having to fiddle with the brakes and knowing you won't have a runaway board. The drawbacks are the board are attached to you if you fall and there is no brake to hold the skiboard from sliding while you mount your boot in the binding.


    Quote Originally Posted by DECKER View Post
    Also, can I mount the coiled leashes directly to the Spruce risers, since there aren't many binding/leash mount options.
    Sure. Some guys drill a small hole for leash attachment in the riser and run a coil ring (key ring type) through it to attach their leashes to. When I do use leashes I attach to the heal lever on my bindings as there is a hole there to clip to but I know that not models/years of the bindings have that hole.
    Boards:
    2016 Spruce tuned Head Jr. Caddys - 131cm
    2013 Spruce "CTS" 120s
    2010 Spruce "Yellow/Red" 120s
    2018 Spruce "CTS" Crossbows - 115cm
    2016 RVL8 Spliffs - 109cm
    2008 RVL8 Revolt "City" - 105cm
    2017 RVL8 Sticky Icky Icky - 104cm
    2011 Defiance Blades - 101cm
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  9. #24  
    Hardcore Skiboarder ysb33r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wookie View Post
    Some guys drill a small hole for leash attachment in the riser and run a coil ring (key ring type) through it to attach their leashes to. When I do use leashes I attach to the heal lever on my bindings as there is a hole there to clip to but I know that not models/years of the bindings have that hole.
    Yip. I was going to mention this as well. My heel pieces have slots in them, but I know certain models don't. Hopefully you have the former. If not, you might get away by threading the cord through the gap left by removing the brakes.
    '18 Spruce Crossbow 115 + Spruce Pro Prime risers (Tyrolia Attack 13 bindings) [goto]
    '18 Spruce Osprey 13- + Ambition bindings plate-mounted [touring]

    '15 Spruce Osprey 130 + Ambition bindings + backcountry riser [touring]
    '12 Rockered Condor 110 + Spruce Pro Sport risers

    '14 K2 Pinnacle Boots
    '10 Spruce 120 + Spruce Pro Jr risers
    '13 Eman Uprise 104 + Custom Riser & SP100 bindings
    '11 Allz Elaila 94

    Previous: Gaspo Hot Wax 84s, Mantrax 98s, Summit Nomad 99s, Salomon RS80 boots


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  10. #25 decker 
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    Ok, but removing the brakes doesn't effect the operation of the release mechanism, right? I've never deconstructed brakes on bindings, it doesn't look that difficult to do.
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  11. #26  
    Hardcore Skiboarder Wookie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DECKER View Post
    Ok, but removing the brakes doesn't effect the operation of the release mechanism, right? I've never deconstructed brakes on bindings, it doesn't look that difficult to do.
    Removing the brakes should not impact operation.
    Boards:
    2016 Spruce tuned Head Jr. Caddys - 131cm
    2013 Spruce "CTS" 120s
    2010 Spruce "Yellow/Red" 120s
    2018 Spruce "CTS" Crossbows - 115cm
    2016 RVL8 Spliffs - 109cm
    2008 RVL8 Revolt "City" - 105cm
    2017 RVL8 Sticky Icky Icky - 104cm
    2011 Defiance Blades - 101cm
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  12. #27  
    Hardcore Skiboarder Bad Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DECKER View Post
    Ok, but removing the brakes doesn't effect the operation of the release mechanism, right? I've never deconstructed brakes on bindings, it doesn't look that difficult to do.
    On some models removing the brakes requires removing the heel piece from the riser. I wouldn't recommend doing this too often. The self tapping binding screws never seem to hold as well as they do the first time they are put in.

    I know it's an added expense, but I would get two set ups rather than mess with the binding screws.
    Just these, nothing else !

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  13. #28  
    Hardcore Skiboarder valmorel's Avatar
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    Be careful. If you remove the brakes, you must replace the housing, the pad the heel of your boot rests on in the binding. This is essential. You have to remove the housing, almost always held in place by a single screw in the middle. Remove the brake legs from the housing, and refit the housing.
    Sticky Icky Icky (go to dream board)
    Most everything else over time.
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  14. #29  
    Hardcore Skiboarder Bluewing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DECKER View Post
    So, if I decide to use the same risers/bindings, on the DLPs and the Blunts, should I remove the brakes? Also, can I mount the coiled leashes directly to the Spruce risers, since there aren't many binding/leash mount options.

    You guys are a wealth of knowledge.

    Thanks.
    You don't need to remove the brakes. I use Head SL100 bindings (Spruce Pro Sport) on boards where the brake arms are wide enough to clear the boards (meaning the brakes will work) and also on boards where the brake arms are too narrow to clear the boards. In the latter case the brake arms just rest on the board surface when the binding is released. If I am riding wide boards, I use a coil leash like ysb33r mentioned. My take is that having brakes that work is a good thing so why take them off. On a wide board having them on doesn't get in the way or impair functionality so you simply need to add a leash.

    Brakes on Blunt - they will not clear the board so simply rest of the board surface when the binding is released.



    Leash photos - a few photos of my leash attachment. This is only 1 way to do it. I have an older model of the Head (Tyrolia) SL100 bindings and my daughter has a new model. Mine done have a hole in the heel tab but do have slots. Her has a hole. In both cases I simply slipped a loop of parachute cord through and knotted it off. To connect the coil leash which has a cord loop on one end and a clasp on the other I loop the coil leash through the parachute cord loop on the binding heel. To connect the leash clap I put a loop of parachute cord around the metal post of an upper boot buckle and then clip on to that. The only downside to that attachment point is that in the event of a really hard pull from the leash the post can get bent and/or that buckle can come undone. I figure at that point I have bigger things to worry about because of the energy of the crash.





    As noted in the thread you can also drill a hole in the back of the riser platform and use that as the leash attachment point. The hole I show here was drilled for other purposes. You can use a split ring to then attach to. Use a sturdy one though since a few people have actually had split rings get stretched apart in crashes.














    Brake removal - this is what valmorel is talking about - in many models of bindings the brake arms are part of the heel pad piece that sits under the boot heel when it is secured in the binding. You can't simply take this out because your boot heel has no place to rest then when in the binding.



    In pursuit of Peace, Harmony and Flow.....
    Think Like a Mountain

    Boards ridden, some owned: Sherpas, Spruce 120 "STS", Blunts, DS110 custom prototypes, Rockered Condors, Revolts, DLPs, Summit Custom 110s, Summit Marauders, Head 94s, Raptor prototypes, Osprey prototypes.
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  15. #30 decker 
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    Great pics of your setup. I'd rather not remove the heel piece, leaving the brakes on for now seems to make sense, along with using the coiled leashes.


    Also, I picked up new boots that are a longer boot length then the Peak 11 bindings are set at now. Can I reset the boot length myself or should I take it to a shop? The bindings are set at 296mm now, the new boot length is 308mm.

    Thanks.
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