not really, gets off all the wax the scraper cant.
I use a nylon brush now. Makes the wax so fine.....GGRRReat!
tuning in genreral
step by step and hat has a lot of other tuning things
thats pretty cool. are u putting the wax on to like fill in any scratches ? or just to make them go faster ?
both, and to maintain lubrication on the bases. or they will dry out and eventually rot. you will know they are dried out because they start looking white and chalky after a while
ONE TIME I HUNG OUT WITH DAVE LYNAM IN PERSON
1.) Citrus Cleaner, I use Goo Gone
2.) Wax down the center, pretty obvious
3.) Scrape excess wax with a wide scraper
4.) Use a wire brush to lightly brush off what the scraper missed
5.) Use a nylon brush to give the bases a nice shiny finish.
6.) Scrape the edges using a smaller scraper and brush again
One thing I've not gotten clear on is how much wax to leave on. One ski shop told me to scrape it right down to the base. On the other extreme, I've seen skis and snowboards come back from the shop with a visible (and uneven) layer of wax still on. Some people say an index card thickness is about right.
I'm totally confused. Is there supposed to be a thin layer of wax left, or are we just trying to get wax down into the pores? How do I know when I've sufficiently scraped the "excess" off?
When I took mine to have it done professionally, the guy who owned the shop also sold me the gear to do it myself afterwards. He showed me how, and recommended that for skiboards I go all the way down to the base, so that I am filling in all the pores and scratches nice and evenly. But he also remarked that it wasnt HUGELY important to do it that way, because when you go out on the snow, after a few runs the snow basically does the scraping job for you. Im not sure which way would be better?
This weekend I conducted an experiment. I went out with my Revolts (105cm) which I had scraped down to the base and my Air Force Ones (90cm) with a thin layer of wax remaining. The AF1s were WAY more slippery on the snow than the Revolts despite the greater length and much better (and years newer) condition of the Revolt's bases.
It seemed pretty clear to me that leaving a thin layer of wax is better.
edit: I guess I should add that the conditions were old packed powder and ice, the temp was around freezing, and the wax was universal all-temp. For other conditions these results could come out differently.
Just thought I'd throw this youtube vid up because it helped me the first time I waxed my boards, along with Mark's how to as well.
It's a snowboard but pretty much the same concept. They guy is pretty good at explaining what's going on too.
I find it funny that I was reading this thread while you posted in it
Just wondering if everyone has seen Mark's ski trip video. At the beginning he waxes a set of boards. Other than that, it's just a cool video.
Last edited by Greco; 01-13-2009 at 12:38 PM.
Should I be removing the bindings before hot waxing?
It makes it a lot easier.
And when I wax my boards, I also take the time to clean the bindings and the topsheets.
How long does the whole process take?
Is there a YouTube video too?
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