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  1. #1 Top Sheet Edge Chamfering (to prevent chipping) 
    Hardcore Skiboarder slow's Avatar
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    Many have asked how to chamfer the top edge of your side wall skiboards to avoid chipping of edges.

    Some riders use fine sandpaper on a wood block and sand the entire edge with a radius. I prefer to use a fine tooth file and chamfer the edge at approximately 45 degrees and 1/16 on an inch wide. I hope the attached photo help you understand the desired result.



    Note the chamfer on the top skiboard verses the "factory" chamfer on the skiboard below.
    Last edited by Greco; 01-10-2012 at 10:13 AM.


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    Skiboarder NHisfun's Avatar
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    good idea making this a thread, slow, and thanks
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    Thanks for the advice. Does it still help prevent chipping if i rode my revolt for the first time already? I already notice a small chip on my tip.
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    Hardcore Skiboarder slow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lthuynh View Post
    Thanks for the advice. Does it still help prevent chipping if i rode my revolt for the first time already? I already notice a small chip on my tip.
    Yes it does help.

    If the chip is more than 1/16 from the edge in width, it is best filled with clear or colored epoxy (or touch up paint) to prevent moisture from getting into the core prior to filing a chamfer at the top edge.


    Osprey, Sherpa, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, Condor (Green), Spliff

    Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

    Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


    Wife: 104 SII & 100 Blunt XL with S810ti bindings on custom "adjustable duck foot" risers

    Loaners: 125LE, 105 EMP, 101 KTP, 100 Blunt XL, 98 Slapdash, 88 Blunts
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  5. #5  
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    Hey Slow, this would be a great add on to your skiboarding FAQ for newbies thread.

    Jay
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    Hardcore Skiboarder Karl's Avatar
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    So me just wondering, "what the heck is chamfering"? I wikied it.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bevel

    Shows the difference between a bevel and a chamfer, which are used interchangeably often but are actually different. To me it looks like beveling would be a making a 45 degree angle on your boards. I don't think that's what we want to do here though, we're going for more of a rounded edge, someone correct me if I'm wrong please.

    That being said, I know it would be a pain, but it looks like a rather precise task so I'm wondering if anyone else has some more close up step by step pics or.... even a video? I learn best by seeing things hands on, just how I am, that would help me visualize exactly what I'm trying to do. Even some before and after close ups would work actually, from the same angle with a digital macro setting on your camera maybe?

    Thanks for the post though slow, I've been wondering about this for a little while now.
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  7. #7  
    Hardcore Skiboarder slow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayWhite View Post
    Hey Slow, this would be a great add on to your skiboarding FAQ for newbies thread.

    Jay
    Done, I added a link to this thread.


    Osprey, Sherpa, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, Condor (Green), Spliff

    Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

    Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


    Wife: 104 SII & 100 Blunt XL with S810ti bindings on custom "adjustable duck foot" risers

    Loaners: 125LE, 105 EMP, 101 KTP, 100 Blunt XL, 98 Slapdash, 88 Blunts
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    Hardcore Skiboarder valmorel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bad Wolf View Post
    This is a problem with sidewall constructed skiboards. The "chamfering" does help. I use a hand sander to do it. The Blunts are sidewall but seem very resistents to edge dings. I think they have different design specifications?

    A good 24 hour marine grade epoxy from Ace is suitable for most skiboard fixes.
    Actually, it's a problem with ALL types of construction. Sharp metal edges and soft plastic . . . . only ever going to be one winner. Difference is, with cap construction you can at least repair it to some extent. The difference between the Blunts and other r8 boards is that the sidewalls on the blunts are angled in much more so are a bit more out of harms way. You can do this with other R8 boards if you have the workshop skills. I always do with mine.

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