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  1. #1 Top Sheet Edge Chamfering (to prevent chipping) 
    Hardcore Skiboarder slow's Avatar
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    Many have asked how to chamfer the top edge of your side wall skiboards to avoid chipping of edges.

    Some riders use fine sandpaper on a wood block and sand the entire edge with a radius. I prefer to use a fine tooth file and chamfer the edge at approximately 45 degrees and 1/16 on an inch wide. I hope the attached photo help you understand the desired result.



    Note the chamfer on the top skiboard verses the "factory" chamfer on the skiboard below.
    Last edited by Greco; 01-10-2012 at 10:13 AM.


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    Skiboarder NHisfun's Avatar
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    good idea making this a thread, slow, and thanks
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  3. #3  
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    Thanks for the advice. Does it still help prevent chipping if i rode my revolt for the first time already? I already notice a small chip on my tip.
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    Hardcore Skiboarder slow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lthuynh View Post
    Thanks for the advice. Does it still help prevent chipping if i rode my revolt for the first time already? I already notice a small chip on my tip.
    Yes it does help.

    If the chip is more than 1/16 from the edge in width, it is best filled with clear or colored epoxy (or touch up paint) to prevent moisture from getting into the core prior to filing a chamfer at the top edge.


    132 Osprey, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, 110 Condor (Green), 109 Spliff

    Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

    Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


    Wife: 104 SII & 100 Blunt XL with S810ti bindings on custom "adjustable duck foot" risers

    Loaners: 125LE, 105 EMP, 101 KTP, 100 Blunt XL, 98 Slapdash, 88 Blunts
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  5. #5  
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    Hey Slow, this would be a great add on to your skiboarding FAQ for newbies thread.

    Jay
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    Hardcore Skiboarder Karl's Avatar
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    So me just wondering, "what the heck is chamfering"? I wikied it.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bevel

    Shows the difference between a bevel and a chamfer, which are used interchangeably often but are actually different. To me it looks like beveling would be a making a 45 degree angle on your boards. I don't think that's what we want to do here though, we're going for more of a rounded edge, someone correct me if I'm wrong please.

    That being said, I know it would be a pain, but it looks like a rather precise task so I'm wondering if anyone else has some more close up step by step pics or.... even a video? I learn best by seeing things hands on, just how I am, that would help me visualize exactly what I'm trying to do. Even some before and after close ups would work actually, from the same angle with a digital macro setting on your camera maybe?

    Thanks for the post though slow, I've been wondering about this for a little while now.
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    Ha, learned something new, I had assumed chamfering and beveling were synonymous.

    On topic, I started doing this with a dremmel, but it was too much effort. I just fill chips with epoxy.
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    Basically what you are trying to do is remove the 90 degree angle and shorten the vertical plane. By adding an angle, you'll increase the chance of a hit deflecting off the top instead of transfering all of the force into peeling the topsheet back. A chamfer is really what you will want since a bevel would leave basically no material at the very edge, making it likely to peel off if caught at the wrong angle.

    Rounding the edge would be called a fillet, and rounding the edge would be effective as well. At as small of dimensions we are talking about, it really isn't going to be a big difference between a fillet and a chamfer, so chamfering will be the better option given that it is next to impossible to through a rounded edge on a material as thin and soft as the topsheets without using some nice machinery. Even then it takes a good bit of skill as well. Basically if you just take some sandpaper and spend 10 minutes or so going lightly around the edge of the board. The amount you will be taking off should be next to unnoticeable, so it's not like this will be a long process.
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    To knock off the sharp edge, I use a little deburring tool. They're cheap. You can make a nice, even, radiused cut on a pair of skiboards in about one minute.

    The tricky part is to pull the towards you using a steady, light stroke. Watch the swarf and try to keep it even.

    Here's a source:

    http://www.grizzly.com/products/Disp...ing-Tool/G9508

    I tried to take a picture which should explain the technique:



    Bill
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    Hardcore Skiboarder Karl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SkaFreak View Post
    Basically what you are trying to do is remove the 90 degree angle and shorten the vertical plane. By adding an angle, you'll increase the chance of a hit deflecting off the top instead of transfering all of the force into peeling the topsheet back.
    Thanks SkaFreak and El Slurpo, makes more sense to me now. Maybe not quite as precise a task as I first thought. Kinda the same idea as detuning your edges so they don't catch but on the top side instead.
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  11. #11  
    Hardcore Skiboarder slow's Avatar
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    To add to the other very good posts from SkaFreak and El Slurpo:

    The objective is to have the edge of the top sheet "set back" from the sidewall so the first surface to be hit by your "other" skiboard (the usual source of the damage) is the sidewall (which is tougher), not the top sheet (which is more fragile). By chamfering the top sheet at 45 degrees to a depth of the thickness of the top sheet, you minimize the opportunity for your other skiboard hitting the edge of the top sheet.

    A good example of what you are trying to achieve is the edge of a laminated book shelf that you probably have somewhere in your house. The shelf’s edge is chamfered the thickness of the laminate to minimize catching the edge of the shelf.

    The process consists of running the fine tooth file “along” the edge. Here is a short video:


    Some may find a file easier to use than sandpaper or the deburring tool. Pick your weapon.

    It is also easier to do without the bindings mounted tothe skiboard.


    132 Osprey, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, 110 Condor (Green), 109 Spliff

    Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

    Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


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  12. #12  
    Hardcore Skiboarder slow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayWhite View Post
    Hey Slow, this would be a great add on to your skiboarding FAQ for newbies thread.

    Jay
    Done, I added a link to this thread.


    132 Osprey, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, 110 Condor (Green), 109 Spliff

    Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

    Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


    Wife: 104 SII & 100 Blunt XL with S810ti bindings on custom "adjustable duck foot" risers

    Loaners: 125LE, 105 EMP, 101 KTP, 100 Blunt XL, 98 Slapdash, 88 Blunts
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  13. #13  
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    thanks for this advice and the video!!
    I'll make sure i do it before my first run on my ktp this weekend!
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  14. #14  
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    To make this forum easier to get around, hop over to this thread http://www.skiboardsonline.com/vbull...ead.php?t=5158 , which is an extension of the thread you are currently on... just more ideas

    when on that thread be sure to check out jeff's post its #11, he has a unique way and it comes with a diagram! (anyone else tried it?)
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  15. #15  
    Hardcore Skiboarder dis's Avatar
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    The video isn't working for me. Is there another link?
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